Spa Care with Hydroxyl/Ion system

Instructions for Using the Havenmade Inc. Ion with hydroxyl generator System
copyright Havenmade 2022

Never use bromine or bromine granular, "Enhance" or other bromide products
with the Hydroxyl or Copper/Silver ionized water! Never get into a spa with cloudy water
without finding out why! Do not use any products unless you are sure they are compatible
with the hydroxyl system and copper and silver ions. (Do not use regular clarifiers or any of the liquid pH balancers!)
All measurements of teaspoons and tablespoons are to be exact. Use only MEASURING SPOONS, not
tableware.

Calcium = 70 to 120 PPM With Hydroxyl generator lower TDS and calcium is better, because the generator will collect and precipitate minerals.
pH = 7.2 to 7.6 (aim for 7.4)
Total Alkalinity = 60 to 90 PPM (aim for 70 to start)
The Super ozone system in the hydroxyl generator will raise pH, so we don't need higher Total Alkalinity.
Copper test 0.5 to 0.7 PPM . About one tablespoon liquid ions for 125 gallons.
(Instant ions about 3 tablespoons for average spa)
Chlorine .5 to 1 PPM (With hydroxyl system do not aim to keep chlorine at any level. Not needed. Only use small amount upon exit or use none and see.)

Instant ions 8 oz
Copper Test kit or strips

Taylor Test kit with Calcium test.

Total Alkalinity increaser

pH Down

HavenMade: pH Haven

Spa Defender/Defender
Clarifier
Non-chlorine shock

Chlorinating Granules (Sodium dichlor-s-triazinetrione dihydrate) Never USE POOL TABLETS it ruins your heater and jets.

303 Cover Protectant
Optional; Metal Gone only for excessive iron or magnesium or?
Clear Vinegar, grocery store variety (once a year soak titanium plates to clean them. )

For the Poly Ball Filters, open the lid and put in 20 of these poly fiber filter balls. Make sure the filter screen is at the bottom with the legs down.
Then place the poly filter canister over the filter mounts and turn them clockwise to install them. They do not need to be tight, but just until they stop turning.

1. When either draining or filling your spa, always turn off the electrical
power by switching off the breaker or switching off the disconnect.

2. Fill the spa with a garden hose, using either cold or warm water (max.
115 degrees F.) . Never fill straight from a hot water faucet, which can
exceed the manufacturer's recommended (thermal expansion) temperatures. Do not use water softened water unless you
consult us first. There are several problems with using soft water. If you have well water or just not good water,
then use a pre-filter on the water hose. Call us for recommendations.

If you have a filter/skimmer combination housing, fill the filter housing first. If you have a water source
with metals, or particles in it, you can use a filter on the end of the hose. Even a sock over the end of the hose is better than letting in debris.
For other brands of spas: Be sure to remove any "AIR LOCKS" from the pumps to insure proper water flow. Haven Spas when filled from the filter housing never have air locks.

3. If you have a dial thermostat, turn it down all the way. This is to
protect the heater in case there is an air pocket upon startup. With digital you can turn it down also.

4. Run the jets on full to allow all of the air to be removed from the
lower plumbing and bleed air locks as needed. Once you have full filter pump circulation, (you can see or feel the circ jets) turn up the thermostat,
or set the digital temperature. I recommend 102 deg; to start. Don't run the pumps for more than a minute without
good water flow showing at the jets. Dry pumps can cause shaft seal damage. Remove the air locks.

5, Set the Haven/Silver-Spas filter The Lainge E14 pump to circulate for 24 hours per day. Only on the Power Jet circ pump do we
set filter times. 8 hours min with hydroxyl system using larger pump.

6. With the jets on high, add 2 ounces of a stain and scale product "sequestering agent" such
as Spa Defender. Follow instructions for your particular brand of metal
and stain protection product. If you have iron or manganese in the water, filter it, and be sure to use
Metal Gone and wait one week before using the "Instant Ions".

7. Using the Taylor Test Kit, test for total alkalinity, pH, and Calcium
Hardness ( test instructions). Consult the charts in the Taylor booklet for amounts of products
to add. Run jets on high while adding products. Always test for calcium, first, before
adding the copper/silver/zinc ions to the water.
The test levels to adjust water are as follows:
total alkalinity 60 to 90 PPM ( 70 PPM ideal starting point)

pH 7.2 to 7.6 (7.4 ideal)
Calcium Hardness 70 to 120 PPM ( 200+ PPM needs to be reduced contact us for how to do that)

8. With the jets on , add pH Haven and let circulate for 5
minutes. Put jets on low speed or turn on only the circulation pump. Use
2 Lbs for 83 inch spas, and 3 lbs for 92 inch spas. This will
help stabilize the pH. ph Haven is a "high buffer" stopping the pH from rising too high.
Do not use any of the liquid pH balancers. They will eventually harm your spa and there is no
warranty for using this and having it damage your spa.

9. Place the floating cover and hard cover on the spa, and let it heat on
the filter pump. In extreme heat (without DAIT fan system), do not use the thermal blanket.

10. Add one tablespoon liquid "instant" ions per 150
gallons. Bring copper to about 0.5 PPM to 0.7 PPM (0.6 PPM ideal). If you
overdo it there is no cause for concern, but it can add a green copper ion
precipitant to the spa surface, which wipes off easily. Proper pH is important to
hold the ions in suspension. A high pH will precipitate the ions. Below .4PPM the water may
not be safe.

11. For excessive use, or using the spa for a bath, dirty people or more than 3 people:
After exiting the spa EVERY TIME add one or two table spoons of non
chlorine shock with the circulation running (for at least 10 min) and one or two Teaspoon of Chlorine granular.
Any time the water shows lack of clarity (when filtering, and pH balance are under control) add an extra Teaspoon.
of chlorine concentrate upon exiting. If you are OK with the chlorine, ad one
tablespoon of non chlorine shock and one teaspoon of chlorine granular per person
upon exiting. ( This varies based upon use and what you see and test in your situation) See Article Water Clarity

12. With the hydroxyl system working, you should not need any chlorine at all nor shock. (It ruins my chemical sales.)
It is only if the spa water does not stay clear, that we would add a teaspoon of the Dichlor to the water. The water should remain clear
except right after you get out, it will have some cloudiness. When in doubt, add a teaspoon of Dichlor to the water.

NEVER GO INTO A SPA WITH CLOUDY WATER UNTIL YOU FIND OUT WHY!
You particularly need to test for the copper. If that is low, the spa could have bacteria growing.

Do not use more than 4 tablespoons of shock and 4 teaspoons of chlorine upon exiting. That is enough to take
care of 6 to 9 bathers. If you have heavy use,(also CLICK) then add more filtering to compensate for a day until the spa is back to normal.

12. Enjoy your spa!!!. Call with any questions and also to sign up for the

This Guide is a reference for spa owners. The schedule below reflects an
average use of the spa which is three times per week in a 350 gallon spa,
with three to four people. If your individual use is more or less, you can adjust
the frequency of the maintenance to fit the actual volume of water and usage.
For HYDROXYL GENERATOR you can skip step #1.

Once a week:
1. Shock the spa water with ( three LEVEL tablespoons per 250 gallons GLENWOOD
4 TABLESPOONS, SPRINGVILLE 5 TABLESPOONS, FALLSBURG 6 TABLESPOONS) )
non chlorine shock and one teaspoon of dichlor powder (Chlorine
Concentrate), to remove organic wastes. Wait a minimum of 1 hour after
shocking, then proceed with test below.. Leave the cover open a minimum of
15 minutes and the jets running.

Do not put water clarifier in until you have adjusted the copper
Using Copper test kit, adjust copper in the water to proper level. Aim for
0.5 to 0.6 PPM range .4 to .7 PPM.
Wait until level drops close to 0.4 if you like. (If you have the electric ionizer: Place the ionizer in the
spa for 1/2 hour intervals then test. IF THE COPPER DROPS BELOW 0.3 BACTERIA
WILL GROW.

Add Defender approximately two ounces per 500 gals. If you are using a
different brand of stain and scale protection, follow the instructions that
came with the product. Be sure the product is ionizer, copper ion, compatible.
Defender is absolutely necessary with Hydroxyl system, to keep copper in suspension.

Add 2 ounces of SeaKlear 4 in 1 spa water clarifier the first week.
Then (one liquid ounce) three tablespoons/500gal each week thereafter. Be
sure to add this after adjusting the copper.

NOTE (not for hydroxyl spa); This is to compensate for shock pH changes. Use one level tablespoon for 1/2 ounce of the dry powders pH down, and
Alkalinity UP. (The actual measure is close to 3/4 of an ounce and it is set that way so you
can adjust both the pH down and the TA up at the same time. Since the pH down lowers TA and
TA up raises pH, we overdose in both directions at the same time. This way saves time and struggling. Use this method
only if you adjust them both at the same time. If the TA is way off or the pH is way off, get them closer then re-test and
adjust them both at the same time with the "tablespoon method".)
Use one level tablespoon for 3/4 ounce of pH up.

For hydroxyl generator spa, to normal testing with test kit and adjust pH to 7.4 and total alkalinity to 70-80 PPM

Using the Taylor test kit ( or a kit that accurately tests) adjust the
total alkalinity (GREEN TEST) first then adjust the pH( aim for 7.2pH) range
(RED TEST) 7.0 to 7.5 Always use sodium carbonate pH up to raise the pH if
the Total Alkalinity is right and the pH is low. You can use citric acid or
dry acid, pH Down (sodium bisulfate) to lower pH. To stabilize pH only use
pH Magic. If pH rises above 7.8+ cloudiness and precipitation may occur,
but this is nothing to be concerned about. Just lower the pH. The copper
will precipitate and leave the level too low for safety if the pH is high! (The Spa
Defender help with this as well.)

Leave the cover open a minimum of 15 minutes after putting in shock, and the jets running.
Do not shock at the same time you put in Spa Defender or clarifier.

Example on adjusting a spa that is way out of pH and TA balance:
About the "tablespoon method"

If you test the TA and the test is already red, that Means the water has zero TA. It needs to be green first. You will also have an extremely low pH. Adjust the TA first until it is about 60 PPM.
You will need to start with a level of total alkalinity so if it is red too begin with, put in about 4-5 tablespoons of TA up run the jets and test it again in 1/2 hour. Once you get a reading, say 30 PPM, then use the chart and adjust to 60 PPM using the tablespoon as 3/4 of an ounce this time. In a 400 gallon spa that would be .90 oz times 3 = 2.7 oz. 2.7 oz divided by .75 oz per tablespoon = 3.6 tablespoons.
Now after an hour of running the jet pumps on low or so, go test both the TA and the pH. Let's say that you get pH requiring 3 drops of acid demand, following the Taylor instructions (R0015 or R0005 depending on the kit) and the TA is 60 PPM requiring another .90 times 2 = 1.8 oz. Now you would put in 3 1/2 tablespoons of TA up (using 1/2 oz = 1 tablespoon) and 1.48 oz for the 3 drops = 3 Tablespoons and PUT THEM BOTH IN AT THE SAME TIME. The spa will be near perfection. in TA and pH of 80 PPM and 7.4 pH.
What we are doing is raising the TA above the aim point, then adjusting the pH to both lower the pH and the TA at the same time. If you use the tablespoon method and the spa is not way out of range, it takes less than 5 minutes to get the spa into perfect balance.

The Total Alkalinity is used as a sort of "crutch" to hold the pH from falling over the week between testing. If the TA does not cause the pH to raise a little (one or two drops of acid demand), then start with a higher TA number at least 10 PPM more until, you achieve a weekly pH rise.

If the pH is always 3 to 5 or more drops of acid demand per week, then start with a lower TA by at least 10 PPM.

After a while you should have a grip on how your particular spa is responding to use and be able to have it not swing so far out of range.

A normal spa will have the TA drop about 20 PPM (measuring 60 PPM) to 30 PPM too low (measuring 50 PPM) and the pH raise about 2 to 3 drops of acid demand. If you can get it closer, by adjusting the TA start point, then do it. DO NOT FOLLOW THE NUMBERS IN THE INSTRUCTIONS FROM ANY OTHER SOURCE WHEN USING IONS.

The standard for bromine is to set the TA at 100 PPM. If you do that with copper and silver ions, the pH will get way too high and ruin the ions level, leaving the spa with no residual ions for safety. The TA is strictly used to help control the pH, so if you control the TA to numbers that work for you, your spa will be so easy to care for.

Anytime you use excessive shock, it will cause the pH and TA to drop. If I have a party and have to use 3 table spoons of shock and three teaspoons of chlorine, then I will test and adjust the water. If you don't have time to test and adjust, then put in about 1 tablespoon of Alkalinity Increaser for each three tablespoons of shock. This will offset the effect off the shock to lower TA and pH.
More Details Click Here

Every Three to Five Weeks: (With regular REMAY filters. For filter balls see next.)
Spray the filter cartridge with a high pressure COLD WATER nozzle. Spray in
between each pleat in an up and down motion. NEVER USE HOT WATER ON A SPA
FILTER! NO CAR WASHES, OR DISH WASHERS! IT PERMANENTLY RUINS THEM! ( Do
not use cleaners, unless the filter is really clogged, because it opens the
filter fibers, making the filter less effective. Wait for your drain and
fill time: 3 to 6 mo. ) Soak the filters in a solution of household bleach and water for three minutes each.
1/4 cup to one gallon. Rinse and put them back in the spa. Wear rubber gloves and an apron so you don't bleach
your clothing or irritate your skin. ( Be sure that no debris gets into the intake to the water pumps, when you remove the filters.)

Every Two to Three Months for Filter Balls:
Remove filter balls and wash them in laundry inside nylon bag. Put in the other clean filter balls into the canisters.
20 each in each canister.

Every One to Three Months:
Treat your spa cover with a recommended conditioner. Inside use 6 months
to one year. Do not use Armorall, Son of a Gun or other cheap products.
They dissolves your cover and have very little UV protectant. Also they
invalidate your spa cover warranty. Do use 303 Protectant.

Every Three to Six Months at drain and fill time:
Exchange the filter for the spare one. Add 4 ounces Sea Klear 4 in 1
clarifier to the spa water and let it circulate. Spray off and then place
the dirty filter in a Filter Cleanse solution for at least 12 hours.
Remove and THOROUGHLY rinse the filter. Let it dry, so the fibers have a
chance to normalize. Clean the jets as needed (see below). Check the pump and heater
union couplings for leaks while you have the front panel removed.
If you have little children, and no place to keep a bucket of spa filter cleaner, then
use only automatic dish soap like Cascade. 1 Cup in 5 gallons. Spray off with the cold water
spray, then spray with "Minute Rinse" and spray off again.

Every Six Months to 12 months Outside use Maximum:
Stain redwood cabinet with an appropriate color stain. Super Deck is an
excellent brand of stain, and protects against Colorado's high UV sunlight
on your wood. For other woods, consult manufacturer.

Once a year:
Take the cores out of the cover and clean them with a solution of hand one
teaspoon dishwashing soap and 1/4 cup household bleach per gallon of water.
Wear rubber gloves!
Turn the cover "skin" inside out and wash the inside then rinse it.. Wash the plastic
cover over the cores rinse it off.
Carefully check over the plastic core cover for any moisture leaks. I recommend a vinyl patch or industrial, waterproof duct tape. If the cores have gotten wet, I suggest that you allow them to dry. Remove the plastic cover carefully and let them dry for a few days out of the wind. Then place the cores back in the plastic and tape it shut with waterproof duct tape. The number one cause of cover failure is the cores becoming saturated. It normally takes two people to get the cores back in, carefully.

Important for the life of the jet pumps: Check the jet pumps for any water seepage showing between the motor and the wet end of the jet pump. There is a "shaft seal" that seals the water inside the pump housing (wet end). If it starts leaking it can ruin the motor if not caught soon enough. The cost to replace a pump that has been ruined by water is from $450 to $700 for the extreme pumps. A seal kit job is about $50 per pump. The shaft seals have a different warranty of 1 or 2 years, because they are normal maintenance, similar to an oil change in your car. (If the shaft seal caused the motor to be rusted out, then the warranty on the motor is void by lack of care.)

Check the union nuts on the pumps and heater. Those are the hook ups to the plumbing pipes with nuts that can be tightened. This is also not covered under warranty because they will in time start to seep and need to be tightened.

The jets will need cleaning depending upon the conditions of use. If you are in a dusty environment, like Colorado near a construction site (the worst), you will need to remove the jet inserts and clean them. Under normal condition this is at least once a year. You can tell that the jets are dirty by the jets not spinning. The bearings will start to have restricted movement due to debris in the bearings. The jet inserts will have trouble turning on and off if there is debris between the body and the jet body wall.

1/ Remove the jet and place the jet front on the jet body. Turn it around and force water back through the jet.
This can often remove enough debris to get the jet to turn. Feel the freedom of spin by holding the jet on in hand and
spin the nozzle. The nozzle should continue to spin after you stop applying force to the nozzle. It should spin freely.

NOTE: The large cyclone or storm jets are removed by turning the face forcefully counterclockwise until it clicks. Then
Pull the jet straight out.

The smaller storm jets are removed by the same method, but sometimes you may need to pry gently up on the jet face while you turn counter clockwise.
I recommend using a flat blade screwdriver wrapped in duct tap to protect the surface.

The Luxury jet series are removed by depressing the release pin towards the center of the jet body. This will allow the insert to be pulled from the jet
body. If it is really stuck by debris, then pry while gently turning and pulling with two screwdrivers one on each side wrapped in duct tape.

On the WaterWay "poly jet" turn the face of the jet counterclockwise until it is released from the threads, then pull straight out.

Remove the jets from the spa and place them in a bucket of cleaning solution. I recommend using Cascade automatic dishwashing soap and water in a 5 gallon paint bucket. Use one cup of Cascade to 5 gallons of water and soak for at least on hour.

Then take each jet and agitate by hand up and down in the Cascade solution (wear rubber gloves).

Spray with a kitchen sink sprayer back through the jet body while spinning the jets and turning the action on the jet insert. You will notice an immediate free
spinning action as the bearings become clean and rinsed. This puts them back in the almost new condition.

If you have sand in your area, it can lodge in between the jet insert and the jet body (and in the bearings). This can cause the plastic to have raised grooves that will restrict the movement of the jet insert in the jet body. The simply cure is to gently smooth the raised grooved areas with a sharp knife to gently shave the raised area or 100 grit, wet or dry, sand paper. Rinse the body and the jet insert to remove any of the tiny plastic shavings or the sand from the jets. Some times the rough plastic is on both the jet body and the insert. To smooth the jet body use the sharp knife and gently shave the jet body where the insert contacts. If the spa is empty, rinse out each jet body with a garden hose and shop vac the water out of each jet body and the spa vessel.
If the spa is full of water run the jet pump to blow out the debris from the jet body. The filter will catch the debris.

After you smooth the jet body or the insert, feel it with your finger for smoothness. If you feel any "bumps" then shave or sand it a bit more.

The Small Neck and shoulder jets (called Adjustable Mini Jets) need to be removed once in a while wiped clean and apply Magic Lube to the body of the jet.
The New Neck Blaster jets don't need this.

If you have any questions on how to do any of the procedures for cleaning the jets, call or email