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Instructions for Using the Havenmade Inc. ion system.
Copper/Silver power ionizer.
And the Instant Ions.
To
see the list of recommended
supplies and order on line
New Wood Tub break in Instructions.
Filling Instructions With copper/silver ionizer and Instant Ions
;
update 08/2008
Click Here for Quick Start
Instructions.
Never use bromine or bromine granular, "Enhance" or other bromide
products
with the Copper/Silver ionized water! Never get into a spa with cloudy
water
without finding out why! Do not use any products unless you are
sure they are compatible
with the copper and silver ions. (Do not use regular clarifiers
or any of the liquid pH
balancers! only "pH Haven" buffer is recommended.)
All measurements of teaspoons and tablespoons are to be exact.
Use
only MEASURING SPOONS, not
tableware.
DO NOT FOLLOW THE NUMBERS IN THE
INSTRUCTIONS
FROM ANY OTHER SOURCE WHEN USING IONS.
The Ranges for the tests are as follows:
Calcium = 180 to 230 PPM
pH = 7.2 to 7.6
Total Alkalinity = 60 to 80 PPM** (This is lower than Chlorine or
Bromine)
Copper test 0.4 to 0.6 PPM
Chlorine .5 to 3 PPM (max)
** If you are using pH Buffer, like HavenMade pH Haven you can use
higher numbers on the TA up to 120 PPM to
extend the time you need to add Alk Up to raise both the TA and the
pH. pH Haven will hold the pH to about 7.4 even with a high
total alkalinity.
Recommended List off Spa Care Supplies.
1. When either draining or filling your spa, always turn off the
electrical
power by switching off the breaker or switching off the disconnect.
2. Fill the spa with a garden hose, using either cold or warm water
(max.
115 degrees F.) . Never fill straight from a hot water faucet, which
can
exceed the manufacturer's recommended temperatures. If you have a
filter/skimmer combination housing, fill the filter housing first.
If you have a water source
with metals, or particles in it, you can use a filter on the end of the
hose. Be sure to remove any
"AIR LOCKS" from the pumps to insure proper water flow.
3. If you have a dial thermostat, turn it down all the way. This is
to
protect the heater in case there is an air pocket upon startup.
4. Run the jets on full to allow all of the air to be removed from
the
lower plumbing and bleed air locks as needed. Once you have full
jet circulation, turn up the thermostat,
or set the digital temperature. I recommend 102 deg; to start.
5, Install fresh filter(s) and set the filter pump to circulate for
6 to 8 hours per day, (On
smaller, under 250 gal., as little as 4 hours.) either continuously, or
in
two separate filter times. On start up always use Standard mode (timed
filtering and thermostat control) on spas
with standard/economy switching. Always set the filtering times
to not filter
during the heat of the day. We recommend 6 PM to 7 PM and 6AM to
7AM.
6. With the jets on high, add 2 ounces of a stain and scale product
such
as Spa DefenderTM. If using SequaSol, for pools or others, follow
instructions for your particular brand
of metal
and stain protection product. If you have iron or magnanese in
the water be sure to use
Metal Gone and wait one week before using the "Instant Ions"
7. Using the Taylor Test Kit, test for total alkalinity, pH, and Calcium
Hardness. Consult the charts in
the Taylor booklet for amounts of products
to add. Run jets on high while adding products.
The test levels to adjust water are as follows:
total alkalinity 60 to 80 PPM ( 80 PPM ideal starting point)
pH 7.2 to 7.6 (7.4 ideal)
Calcium Hardness 180 to 220 PPM ( 200 PPM ideal)
8. Optional: With the jets on high, add pH Magic (or Boric acid at
20 oz per 200 Gallons) and let circulate
for 5
minutes. Put jets on low speed or turn on only the circulation pump.
Use
the whole 3 Lbs ph Magic for 300 gals or more. Use 1/2 for less
gallons. This
will
help stabilize the pH.
Do not use any of the liquid pH balancers. They will
eventually harm your Tub.
9. Place the floating cover and hard cover on the spa, and let it
heat on
the filter pump.
10. Place the ionizer (or add one tablespoon liquid "instant"
ions
per 150
gallons ) in the spa on it's side and plug it in. Remember to switch
the
polarity each time you use it. After about 1 to 1.5 hours test the
copper. Bring copper to about 0.5 PPM to 0.7 PPM (0.6 PPM ideal).
If you
overdo it there is no cause for concern, but it can add a green copper
ion
precipitant to the spa surface, which wipes off easily. Proper pH is
important to
hold the ions in suspension. A high pH will precipitate the
ions.
11. After exiting the spa EVERY TIME add one or two table spoons of
chlorine granular (dichlor)
(for at least 10 min). With three people add one
tablespoon with more add two tablespoons. (if the spa is showing
a high residual
of chlorine reduce the amounts to keep the chlorine below 2 PPM.
Any time the water shows lack of clarity (when filtering, and pH
balance are under control) add an extra Tablespoon.
of chlorine concentrate upon exiting.
NEVER GO INTO A SPA WITH CLOUDY WATER UNTIL YOU FIND OUT WHY!
(brown water is ok on a new wooden hot tub as long as it is totally
transparent. Put some in a glass if you need to see)
( This varies based upon use) See Article
Water Clarity
(form: Filling instructions Copper/Silver 4-2004)
------------
Suggested Maintenance:
This Guide is a reference for spa owners. The schedule below
reflects an
average use of the spa which is three times per week in a 430 gallon
wood tub,
with four people. If your individual use is more or less, you can
adjust
the frequency of the
maintenance to fit the actual volume of water and usage.
Suggested Scheduled Spa Maintenance with Silver&Copper Ionizer
Once a week:
Shock the spa water with 4 tablespoons of SeaKlear nonchlorine
shock. (potassium peroxymonosulfate)
non chlorine shock and one tablespoon of dichlor powder (Chlorine
Concentrate), to remove organic wastes. Wait a minimum of 1 hour
after
shocking, then proceed with test below.. Leave the cover open a minimum
of
15 minutes and the jets running for 20 minutes.
Do not shock at the same time you put in Spa Defender or 4 in 1 clarifier.
Do not put water clarifier in until you have adjusted the copper
Using Copper test kit, adjust copper in the water to proper level. Aim
for
0.5 to 0.6 PPM range .4 to .7 PPM.
One tablespoon of Instant ions will raise the water ions about .2 to
.3PPM
IF THE COPPER DROPS BELOW
0.3 BACTERIA
WILL GROW.
Add Spa DefenderTM (or Sequasol using manufacturer's instructions)
approximately two ounces per 440 gals. If you are
using a
different brand of stain and scale protection, follow the instructions
that
came with the product. Be sure the product is ionizer compatible.
Add 2 ounces of SeaKlear 4 in 1 spa water clarifier the first week.
Then (one liquid ounce) three tablespoons/500gal each week thereafter.
Be
sure to add this after adjusting the copper.
NOTE; For measuring, Use one level tablespoon for 1/2 ounce of
the dry powders pH
down, and
Alkalinity UP. (The actual measure is close to 3/4 of an ounce and
it is set that way so you
can adjust both the pH down and the TA up at the same time. Since the
pH
down lowers TA and
TA up raises pH, we overdose in both directions at the same time.
This
way saves time and struggling. Use this method
only if you adjust them both at the same time. If the TA is way
off
or the pH is way off, get them closer then re-test and
adjust them both at the same time with the "tablespoon method".)
Use one level tablespoon for 3/4 ounce of pH up.
Using the Taylor test kit ( or a kit that accurately tests) adjust
the
total alkalinity (GREEN TEST) first then adjust the pH( aim for 7.2pH)
range
(RED TEST) 7.2 to 7.6 Always use sodium carbonate pH up to raise
the pH if
the Total Alkalinity is right and the pH is low. You can use citric
acid or
dry acid, pH Down (sodium bisulfate) to lower pH. To stabilize pH only
use
pH Magic (boric acid). If pH rises above 7.8+ cloudiness and
precipitation may
occur,
but this is nothing to be concerned about. Just lower the pH. The
copper
will precipitate and leave the level too low for safety if the pH is
high! (The Spa
Defender help with this as well.)
Leave the cover open a minimum of 15 minutes and the jets running.
Do not shock at the same time you put in Spa Defender or clarifier.
Example on adjusting a spa that is way out of pH and TA balance:
About the "tablespoon method"
If you test the TA and the test is already red, that Means the water
has
zero TA. It needs to be green first. You will also have an
extremely
low pH. Adjust the TA first until it is about 60 PPM.
You will need to start with a level of total alkalinity so if it is red
too
begin with, put in about 4-5 tablespoons of TA up run the jets and test
it
again in 1/2 hour. Once you get a reading, say 30 PPM, then use
the
chart and adjust to 60 PPM using the tablespoon as 3/4 of an ounce this
time.
In a 400 gallon spa that would be .90 oz times 3 = 2.7 oz.
2.7
oz divided by .75 oz per tablespoon = 3.6 tablespoons.
Now after an hour of running the jet pumps on low or so, go test both
the
TA and the pH. Let's say that you get pH requiring 3 drops of
acid
demand, following the Taylor
instructions
(R0015 or R0005 depending on the kit) and the TA is 60 PPM
requiring
another .90 times 2 = 1.8 oz. Now you would put in 3 1/2
tablespoons
of TA up (using 1/2 oz = 1 tablespoon) and 1.48 oz for the
3
drops = 3 Tablespoons and PUT THEM BOTH IN AT THE SAME TIME. The spa
will
be near perfection. in TA and pH of 80 PPM and 7.4 pH.
What we are doing is raising the TA above the aim point, then adjusting
the
pH to both lower the pH and the TA at the same time. If you
use
the tablespoon method and the spa is not way out of range, it takes
less
than 5 minutes to get the spa into perfect balance.
The Total Alkalinity is used as a sort of "crutch" to hold the pH from
falling
over the week between testing. If the TA does not cause the pH
to
raise a little (one or two drops of acid demand), then start with a
higher
TA number at least 10 PPM more until, you achieve a weekly pH rise.
If the pH is always 3 to 5 or more drops of acid demand per week,
then
start with a lower TA by at least 10 PPM.
After a while you should have a grip on how your particular
spa
is responding to use and be able to have it not swing so far out of
range.
A normal spa will have the TA drop about 20 to 30 PPM and the pH
raise
about 2 to 3 drops of acid demand. If you can get it closer, by
adjusting
the TA start point, then do it. DO NOT FOLLOW THE NUMBERS IN THE
INSTRUCTIONS
FROM ANY OTHER SOURCE WHEN USING IONS.
The standard for bromine is to set the TA at 100 PPM. If you
do
that with copper and silver ions, the pH will get way too high and ruin
the
ions level, leaving the spa with no residual ions for safety.
The
TA is strictly used to help control the pH, so if you control the
TA
to numbers that work for you, your spa will be so easy to care for.
Anytime you use excessive shock, it will cause
the
pH and TA to drop. If I have a party (8 or more people) and
have to use 3
table
spoons of shock and one tablespoon of chlorine, then I will test and
adjust
the water. If you don't have time to test and adjust, then put
in
about 1 tablespoon of Alkalinity Increaser for each three tablespoons
of
shock. This will offset the effect off the shock to lower TA and
pH.
Every Three to Five Weeks:
Spray the filter cartridge with a high pressure COLD WATER nozzle.
Spray in
between each pleat in an up and down motion. NEVER USE HOT WATER
ON A SPA
FILTER! NO CAR WASHES, OR DISH WASHERS! IT PERMANENTLY RUINS
THEM! Do
not use cleaners, unless the filter is really clogged, because it opens
the
filter fibers, making the filter less effective. Wait for your drain
and
fill time: 3 to 6 mo (unless this is a new wood tub during the break in
period). Soak the filters in a solution of
household bleach and water for three minutes each.1/4 cup to one
gallon. Rinse and put them back in the spa.
Wear rubber gloves and an apron so you don't bleach
your clothing or irritate your skin.
For Pressure filters, like the Hayward C500 or XC 750 you will need
to bleed the air from the air bleeder each time the filter is
changed. Make sure the bleeder is not overtightened, or any part
is overtightened. The bleeder has an o'ring as well and it needs
to be lubricated.
Also use "Magic Lube" on the o'rings to insure a seal. DO NOT
OVER TIGHTEN A PRESSURE FILTER. Snug it until the water stops
leaking. If you have to use force, then put in new o'rings. The
Hayward filters have a small o'ring under the handle for unscrewing the
lid. Make sure that area has ample Magic Lube. Did I say
not to overtighten the handles or bleeders?
On brand new wood tubs go to here for filter
instructions.
Every One to Three Months:
Treat your spa cover with a recommended conditioner. Inside use 6
months
to one year. Do not use Armorall, Son of a Gun or other cheap products.
They dissolves your cover and have very little UV protectant. Also they
invalidate your spa cover warranty. Do use 303 Protectant.
Every Three to Six Months at drain and fill time:
Exchange the filter for the spare one. Add 4 ounces Sea Klear 4 in 1
clarifier to the spa water and let it circulate. Spray off and then
place
the dirty filter in a Filter Cleanse solution for at least 12 hours.
Remove and THOROUGHLY rinse the filter. Let it dry, so the fibers have
a
chance to normalize. Clean the jets as needed (see below).
Check the pump and heater
union couplings for leaks while you have the front panel removed.
Every Six Months Outside use Maximum:
Stain redwood cabinet with an appropriate color stain. Super Deck is an
excellent brand of stain, and protects against Colorado's high UV
sunlight
on your wood. It is a breathable stain designed for cedar and
redood.
For other woods, consult manufacturer.
Once a year:
Take the cores out of the cover and clean them with a solution of hand
diswashing soap,
one
teaspoon dishwashing soap and 1/4 cup household bleach per gallon of
water.
Wear rubber gloves!
Turn the cover "skin" inside out and wash the inside then rinse
it.. Wash the plastic
cover over the cores rinse it off. This is a good summer time
task.
Carefully check over the plastic core cover for any moisture
leaks. I recommend a vinyl patch or industrial, waterproof duct
tape. If the cores have gotten wet, I suggest that you allow them
to dry. Remove the plastic cover carefully and let them dry for a
few days out of the wind. Then place the cores back in the
plastic and tape it shut with waterproof duct tape. The number
one cause of cover failure is the cores becoming saturated. It
normally takes two people to get the cores back in,
carefully.
Cleaning the tub:
Do not use chlorine to clean the wood. That will destroy
the
face of the wooden fibers and make a worse mess of the wood. Wood
is
an organic material and chlorine destroys organic matter.
Use a scrub brush or a terry towel to wipe the tub.
If it needs
further cleaning use baking soda, and sprinkle that on a wet terry
cloth, then wipe the inside walls with that. If there are
stubborn
calcium deposits, use pH down on a wet terry cloth towel and wipe the
wall with that.
Rinse the wall with water and flush the water out of the
tub. Don't
leave the pH down on the wall too long. Do not use any
cleaners with
phosphates or soap. The scrub brush and water is the
best. Keeping
the water balanced, using a sequestering agent ( Spa Defender or
Sequsol) and regular shock and chlorine use is the best way to keep the
tub clean. That way you only have to wipe the tub at the water
line.
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