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Instructions for Using the Havenmade Inc. Ion System
copyright Havenmade Inc 1997-2024
To see the list of recommended
supplies and order on line
Filling Instructions With copper/silver ionizer and Instant
Ions
; update 2022
Click Here for Quick Start Instructions.
Never use bromine or bromine granular, "Enhance" or other bromide
products
with the Copper/Silver ionized water! Never get into a spa with
cloudy water
without finding out why! Do not use any products unless you
are sure they are compatible
with the copper and silver ions. (Do not use regular
clarifiers or any of the liquid pH balancers!)
All measurements of teaspoons and tablespoons are to be exact.
Use only MEASURING SPOONS, not
tableware.
The Ranges for the tests are as follows:
Recommended List off Spa Care Supplies.
All
items can be purchased here at a discount
1. When either draining or filling your spa, always turn off the
electrical
power by switching off the breaker or switching off the
disconnect.
2. Fill the spa with a garden hose, using either cold or warm
water (max.
115 degrees F.) . Never fill straight from a hot water faucet,
which can
exceed the manufacturer's recommended temperatures. Do not use
water softened water unless you
consult us first. There are several problems with using soft
water. If you have well water or just not good water,
then use a pre-filter on the water hose.
If you have a filter/skimmer combination housing, fill the filter
housing first. If you have a water source
with metals, or particles in it, you can use a filter on the end
of the hose. Be sure to remove any
"AIR LOCKS" from the pumps to insure proper water flow.
3. If you have a dial thermostat, turn it down all the way. This
is to
protect the heater in case there is an air pocket upon startup.
4. Run the jets on full to allow all of the air to be removed
from the
lower plumbing and bleed air locks as needed. Once you have full
jet circulation, turn up the thermostat,
or set the digital temperature. I recommend 102 deg; to
start. Don't run the pumps for more than a minute without
good water flow showing at the jets. Dry pumps can cause
shaft seal damage. Remove the air locks.
5, Set the filter pump to circulate for 6 to 8 hours per day, (On
smaller, under 250 gal., as little as 4 hours.) either
continuously, or in
two separate filter times. On start up always use Standard mode on
spas
with standard/economy switching. Always set the filtering
times to not filter
during the heat of the day. We recommend 5 PM to 7 PM and
5AM to 7AM as good starting times.
The Super Custom spas do not need any long filter times (set them
to 1 Hr one time) because the smaller circulation pump does the
filtering. You can set the filter to "Off" on the SC and
SE models prior to 2006. If you do not run the blower
or the jet pumps by using the spa for any extended times beyond a
week, then you can program in 1 hour. Avoid any use of the
main jet pump for filteing in summer. It can cause the
temperature of the spa to rise above the set point. In
extreme summer above 95 degrees, you may need to prop open the
cover and let heat out. On the 2006 models set the filtering to "F
12" and it can be adjusted down in hot summer to as low as "F
06".
6. With the jets on high, add 2 ounces of a stain and scale
product "sequestering agent" such
as Spa Defender. Follow instructions for your particular brand of
metal
and stain protection product. If you have iron or magnanese
in the water, filter it, and be sure to use
Metal Gone and wait one week before using the "Instant Ions".
8. Optional: With the jets on high, add pH Haven and let
circulate for 5
minutes. Put jets on low speed or turn on only the circulation
pump. Use
the whole 3 Lbs for 300 gals or more. Use 1/2 for less gallons.
This will
help stabilize the pH. pH Haven is a helper with pH
stabilization.
Do not use any of the liquid pH balancers. They will
eventually harm your spa and void the shell warranty.
(they often dump out calcium on all the parts of the spa, and it
is hard like concrete and very difficult to remove. So
Do not use these liquid pH stabilizers. Only use pH Haven or
equivalent.
9. Place the floating cover and hard cover on the spa, and let it
heat on
the filter pump. In extreme heat, do not use the thermal
blanket.
10. Add one tablespoon
liquid "instant" ions
per 150
gallons. Bring copper
to about 0.5 PPM to 0.7 PPM
(0.6 PPM ideal). If you
overdo it there is no cause for concern, but it can add a green
copper ion
precipitant to the spa surface, which wipes off easily. Proper pH
is important to
hold the ions in suspension. A high pH will precipitate the
ions. Below .4PPM of copper ions,the water may
not be safe.
next Spa Care Class.
(form: Filling instructions Copper/Silver 2-2000)
------------
Suggested Maintenance:
This Guide is a reference for spa owners. The schedule below
reflects an
average use of the spa which is three times per week in a 350
gallon spa,
with four people. If your individual use is more or less, you can
adjust
the frequency of the
maintenance to fit the actual volume of water and usage.
Suggested Scheduled Spa Maintenance with Silver&Copper Ionizer
Once a week:
Shock the spa water with ( three LEVEL tablespoons per 250 gallons
GLENWOOD
4 TABLESPOONS, SPRINGVILLE 5 TABLESPOONS, FALLSBURG 6 TABLESPOONS)
)
non chlorine shock and one teaspoon of dichlor powder (Chlorine
Concentrate), to remove organic wastes. Wait a minimum of 1 hour
after
shocking, then proceed with test below.. Leave the cover open a
minimum of
15 minutes and the jets running.
Do not shock at the same time you put in Spa Defender or 4 in 1 clarifier.
Do not put water clarifier in until you have adjusted the copper
Using Copper test kit, adjust copper in the water to proper level.
Aim for
0.5 to 0.6 PPM range .4 to .7 PPM.
Wait until level drops close to 0.4 if you like. Place the ionizer
in the
spa for 1/2 hour intervals then test. IF THE COPPER DROPS
BELOW 0.3 BACTERIA
WILL GROW.
Add Spa DefenderTM approximately two ounces per 500 gals. If you
are using a
different brand of stain and scale protection, follow the
instructions that
came with the product. Be sure the product is ionizer compatible.
Add 2 ounces of SeaKlear 4 in 1 spa water clarifier the first
week.
Then (one liquid ounce) three tablespoons/500gal each week
thereafter. Be
sure to add this after adjusting the copper.
NOTE; Use one level tablespoon for 1/2 ounce of the dry powders
pH down, and
Alkalinity UP. (The actual measure is close to 3/4 of an ounce and
it is set that way so you
can adjust both the pH down and the TA up at the same time. Since
the pH down lowers TA and
TA up raises pH, we overdose in both directions at the same time.
This way saves time and struggling. Use this method
only if you adjust them both at the same time. If the TA is
way off or the pH is way off, get them closer then re-test and
adjust them both at the same time with the "tablespoon method".)
Use one level tablespoon for 3/4 ounce of pH up.
Using the Taylor test kit ( or a kit that accurately tests)
adjust the
total alkalinity (GREEN TEST) first then adjust the pH( aim for
7.2pH) range
(RED TEST) 7.0 to 7.5 Always use sodium carbonate pH up to raise
the pH if
the Total Alkalinity is right and the pH is low. You can use
citric acid or
dry acid, pH Down (sodium bisulfate) to lower pH. To stabilize pH
only use
pH Magic. If pH rises above 7.8+ cloudiness and precipitation may
occur,
but this is nothing to be concerned about. Just lower the pH. The
copper
will precipitate and leave the level too low for safety if the pH
is high! (The Spa
Defender help with this as well.)
Leave the cover open a minimum of 15 minutes and the jets
running.
Do not shock at the same time you put in Spa Defender or
clarifier.
Example on adjusting a spa that is way out of pH and TA balance:
About the "tablespoon method"
If you test the TA and the test is already red, that Means the
water has zero TA. It needs to be green first. You
will also have an extremely low pH. Adjust the TA first
until it is about 60 PPM.
You will need to start with a level of total alkalinity so if it
is red too begin with, put in about 4-5 tablespoons of TA up run
the jets and test it again in 1/2 hour. Once you get a
reading, say 30 PPM, then use the chart and adjust to 60 PPM using
the tablespoon as 3/4 of an ounce this time. In a 400 gallon
spa that would be .90 oz times 3 = 2.7 oz. 2.7 oz divided
by .75 oz per tablespoon = 3.6 tablespoons.
Now after an hour of running the jet pumps on low or so, go test
both the TA and the pH. Let's say that you get pH requiring
3 drops of acid demand, following the Taylor
instructions (R0015 or R0005 depending on the kit)
and the TA is 60 PPM requiring another .90 times 2 =
1.8 oz. Now you would put in 3 1/2 tablespoons of TA up
(using 1/2 oz = 1 tablespoon) and 1.48 oz for the 3
drops = 3 Tablespoons and PUT THEM BOTH IN AT THE SAME TIME. The
spa will be near perfection. in TA and pH of 80 PPM and 7.4 pH.
What we are doing is raising the TA above the aim point, then
adjusting the pH to both lower the pH and the TA at the same time.
If you use the tablespoon method and the spa is not
way out of range, it takes less than 5 minutes to get the spa into
perfect balance.
The Total Alkalinity is used as a sort of "crutch" to hold the pH
from falling over the week between testing. If the TA does
not cause the pH to raise a little (one or two drops of acid
demand), then start with a higher TA number at least 10 PPM more
until, you achieve a weekly pH rise.
If the pH is always 3 to 5 or more drops of acid demand per week,
then start with a lower TA by at least 10 PPM.
After a while you should have a grip on how your particular
spa is responding to use and be able to have it not swing so far
out of range.
A normal spa will have the TA drop about 20 PPM (measuring 60 PPM) to 30 PPM too low (measuring 50 PPM) and the pH raise about 2 to 3 drops of acid demand. If you can get it closer, by adjusting the TA start point, then do it. DO NOT FOLLOW THE NUMBERS IN THE INSTRUCTIONS FROM ANY OTHER SOURCE WHEN USING IONS.
The standard for bromine is to set the TA at 100 PPM. If
you do that with copper and silver ions, the pH will get way too
high and ruin the ions level, leaving the spa with no residual
ions for safety. The TA is strictly used to help control
the pH, so if you control the TA to numbers that work for
you, your spa will be so easy to care for.
Anytime you use excessive shock, it will
cause the pH and TA to drop. If I have a party and
have to use 3 table spoons of shock and three teaspoons of
chlorine, then I will test and adjust the water. If you
don't have time to test and adjust, then put in about 1 tablespoon
of Alkalinity Increaser for each three tablespoons of shock.
This will offset the effect off the shock to lower TA and
pH.
More Details Click Here
Every Three to Five Weeks:
For our Filter Ball Cartridges:
Unscrew the cartridges from the filter housing.
Removed the filter balls and put them in the nylon net bag for
washing. Place the bag in the laundry machine and wash like
normal clothes. Then take the bags out and let them
dry. Keep them handy for the next filter ball exchange.
Place 20 of the normal size filter balls in each canister and
close the lid. Place the canisters in the filter housing and
gently screw them back down. NO level of torque is needed.
Just until they seat.
For the Polyester type of filter cartridges.
Spray the filter cartridge with a high pressure COLD WATER
nozzle. Spray in
between each pleat in an up and down motion. NEVER USE HOT WATER
ON A SPA
FILTER! NO CAR WASHES, OR DISH WASHERS! IT PERMANENTLY RUINS THEM!
( Do
not use cleaners, unless the filter is really clogged, because it
opens the
filter fibers, making the filter less effective. Wait for your
drain and
fill time: 3 to 6 mo. ) Soak the filters in a solution of
household bleach and water for three minutes each.
1/4 cup to one gallon. Rinse and put them back in the spa.
Wear rubber gloves and an apron so you don't bleach
your clothing or irritate your skin. ( Be sure that no
debris gets into the intake to the water pumps, when you remove
the filters.)
Every One to Three Months:
Treat your spa cover with a recommended conditioner. Inside use 6
months
to one year. Do not use Armorall, Son of a Gun or other cheap
products.
They dissolves your cover and have very little UV protectant. Also
they
invalidate your spa cover warranty. Do use 303 Protectant.
Every Three to Six Months at drain and fill time:
Only for Polyester cartridge type of filters: Exchange the
filter(s) for the spare one.
For both types of filters: Add 4 ounces Sea Klear
(chitosan)
clarifier to the spa water and let it circulate. This is the only
type of clarifier to us with ions.
Other clarifiers my lower your sanitizer.
Cartridge filters only: Spray off and then place
the dirty filter in a Filter Cleanse solution for at least 12
hours.
Remove and THOROUGHLY rinse the filter. Let it dry, so the fibers
have a
chance to normalize. Clean the jets as needed (see below).
Check the pump and heater
union couplings for leaks while you have the front panel removed.
If you have little children, and no place to keep a bucket of spa
filter cleaner, then
use only automatic dish soap like Cascade. 1 Cup in 5
gallons. Spray off with the cold water
spray, then spray with "Minute Rinse" and spray off again.
Every Six Months to 12 months Outside use Maximum:
Stain redwood cabinet with an appropriate color stain. Super Deck
is an
excellent brand of stain, and protects against Colorado's high UV
sunlight
on your wood. For other woods, consult manufacturer.
For our permanent composite no maintenance is needed,
except to clean with soap and water.
Once a year:
Take the cores out of the cover and clean them with a solution of
hand one
teaspoon dishwashing soap and 1/4 cup household bleach per gallon
of water.
Wear rubber gloves!
Turn the cover "skin" inside out and wash the inside then
rinse it.. Wash the plastic
cover over the cores rinse it off.
Carefully check over the plastic core cover for any moisture
leaks. I recommend a vinyl patch or industrial, waterproof
duct tape. If the cores have gotten wet, I suggest that you
allow them to dry. Remove the plastic cover carefully and
let them dry for a few days out of the wind. Then place the
cores back in the plastic and tape it shut with waterproof duct
tape. The number one cause of cover failure is the cores
becoming saturated. It normally takes two people to get the
cores back in, carefully.
Important for the life of the
jet pumps: Check the jet pumps for any water seepage
showing between the motor and the wet end of the jet pump.
There is a "shaft seal" that seals the water inside the pump
housing (wet end). If it starts leaking it can ruin the
motor if not caught soon enough. The cost to replace a pump
that has been ruined by water is from $450 to $700 for the extreme
pumps. A seal kit job is about $50-$100 per
pump. The shaft seals have a different warranty of 1
or 2 years, because they are normal maintenance, similar to
an oil change in your car. (If the shaft seal caused the motor to
be rusted out, then the warranty on the motor is void by lack of
care.)
Our latest 2015, shaft seals are special very hardened materials
that last up to 15 years if the water is cared for.
Check the union nuts on the pumps and heater. Those are the
hook ups to the plumbing pipes with nuts that can be
tightened. This is also not covered under warranty
because they will in time start to seep and need to be
tightened. Hand tighten only. Or if you are not strong
hand tighten then use a rubber belt strap tool to give them at the
most 1/4 turn.
Cleaning the Spa Jets:
The jets will need cleaning depending upon the conditions of use.
If you are in a dusty environment, like Colorado near a
construction site (the worst), you will need to remove the jet
inserts and clean them. Under normal condition this is at
least once a year. You can tell that the jets are
dirty by the jets not spinning. The bearings will start to
have restricted movement due to debris in the bearings. The
jet inserts will have trouble turning on and off if there is
debris between the body and the jet body wall.
The quick fix with a new spa and new jets that have debris:
1/ Remove the jet and place the jet front on the jet body.
Turn it around and force water back through the jet.
This can often remove enough debris to get the jet to turn.
Feel the freedom of spin by holding the jet on in hand and
spin the nozzle. The nozzle should continue to spin after
you stop applying force to the nozzle. It should spin
freely.
NOTE: The large storm jets are removed by turning the
face counterclockwise until it clicks and unscrew them. Then
Pull the jet straight out.
The medium size storm jets are removed the same way.
The smaller storm jets are removed by the same method.
Standard cleaning of any jet insert:
(recommended at least yearly)
Remove the jets from the spa and place them in a bucket of
cleaning solution. I recommend using Cascade automatic dish
washing soap and water in a 5 gallon paint bucket. Use one
cup of Cascade to 5 gallons of water and soak for at least on
hour. Or equivalent "pods".
Then take each jet and agitate by hand up and down in the Cascade
solution (wear rubber gloves).
Spray with a kitchen sink sprayer back through the jet body while
spinning the jets and turning the action on the jet insert.
You will notice an immediate free
spinning action as the bearings become clean and rinsed.
This puts them back in the almost new condition.
If you have sand in your area, it can lodge in between the jet
insert and the jet body (and in the bearings). This can
cause the plastic to have raised grooves that will restrict the
movement of the jet insert in the jet body. The simply cure
is to gently smooth the raised grooved areas with a sharp knife to
gently shave the raised area or 100 grit, wet or dry, sand paper.
Rinse the body and the jet insert to remove any of the tiny
plastic shavings or the sand from the jets. Some times the
rough plastic is on both the jet body and the insert. To
smooth the jet body use the sharp knife and gently shave the jet
body where the insert contacts. If the spa is empty, rinse
out each jet body with a garden hose and shop vac the water out of
each jet body and the spa vessel.
If the spa is full of water run the jet pump to blow out the
debris from the jet body. The filter will catch the debris.
After you smooth the jet body or the insert, feel it with your
finger for smoothness. If you feel any "bumps" then shave or
sand it a bit more.
The Small Neck and shoulder jets need to be removed once in a
while wiped clean and apply Magic
Lube to the body of the jet.
If you have any questions on how to do any of the procedures for
cleaning the jets, call or email
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