We need to make sure the GFCI is the problem.
99% of the time it is not the problem.
The
way to do that is to test the parts of the spa individually that
normally cause real ground faults.
The
unit is repairable as well and I have the parts at a discount
for you.
There
is no better GFCI around and normally if it is tripping, there
is a ground fault in the system somewhere.
The
wiring from the spa to the box needs to be tested as well for
any ground leaks.
The
process of testing the spa for ground fault is to.
Always
make sure the main breaker is off any time your are working in
side of the control box, making changes.
1/
Disconnect both leads off the heater from the circuit
board.
Do
not take them off the heater element, because if it is not the
problem you can damage the electrodes
by twisting them. Place the wires where they
don't touch anything.
2/
Turn the power back on and see if the spa runs normally.
If the spa runs nomrally and doesn't trip the GFCI, then the
heater element needs to be replaced.
Next
test is the blower.
Always
turn off the power at the main breaker to the spa.
1/
Replace the heater wires on the board. Don't over
tighten them. Just snug is good.
2/
On the side of the control box, determine which cord plug has
the blower attached to it. It is often labeled but not
always. You can trace the wire from the blower back to the
board and unplug it.
3/
Turn the power back on and see if the rest of the spa
runs normally. If it runs OK then the blower has the
ground fault.
4/
You cant see if the blower is wet and do a blower run to dry it
by (main power OFF!) removing the green ground wire off the
circuit board, plug in the blower (turn power back on) and run
it for 20 minutes.
5/
(Main power off) Put the green blower ground wire back on the
circuit board connector and (main power back on) run the blower
to see if it trips the GFCI. If it trips the GFCI after
this test then it may need to be replaced. You can
try another 20 minute dry out and see if it does it
again. (step 4-5)
If
the GFCI still TRIPS after these tests then you need to unplug
the remaining devices from the spa one at a time and reset the
GFCI until the GFCI stops tripping and "holds". The one
that you unplug last and the GFCI holds is the "culpret"
and it needs to be replaced or fixed.
Unplug
the pumps, ozone generator, and any device left plugged in "one
at a time" to test this. You have to do it one device at a
time or you will get confused and it takes longer.
NOW
if the GFCI still trips after all this testing, then we need to
see if the wires in the conduit from the GFCI to the spa are
where the ground fault is.
1/
To test this, you remove the wires from the GFCI going to the
spa and reset the GFCI. If the GFCI holds with no load
attached, then I would run a separate test wire from the GFCI to
the spa and try it.
2/
Use a section of 6-3 w ground sheathed cable also called "Romex"
and hook it to the GFCI and then to the "Line In" power
connections on the spa. (You cannot leave the spa this way
as it is only for testing!) .
3/
If the GFCI holds and the spa runs OK, then the wires
going to the spa have a ground leak and are the cause. (I
have found this to be the case, several times.)
4/
If the wires are ground leaking they are dangerous and need to
be replaced with clean dry conduit and clean dry wires.
There
should be no possible way for water to enter the conduit.